Heading to Saba, I know I’m in for something different. As our plane boards, the pilot asks people to sit up front “so we can distribute the weight evenly.” There are maybe 15 on the flight—in other words, it’s full. We fly for 12 minutes when suddenly our plane heads straight for a jagged mountain, and I’m sure this is the end. Miraculously, it skirts the mountain, and we touch down on a runway the length of your average living room (they claim it’s the smallest commercial runway in the world). I breathe a deep sigh of relief. I get my luggage: it takes two seconds. I go through immigration: another two seconds. And I’m on my way to explore this amazing Caribbean island where gay marriage is legal (you heard me right) and prejudice and crime are practically non-existent (seriously). Even more interesting, there are basically no beaches, with the only sandy crescent on the island coming and going with the ocean and the tides.